Saturday, September 10, 2011

DPP - a photographer friendly software


My recent discovery has been the joy of using Digital Photo Professional (DPP), a software that comes bundled along with Canon EOS cameras. Though I had been having the EOS 40D for almost 4 years, I never explored the DPP’s potential fully. I only used it for conversion of the RAW file to TIFF. Beyond that everything else was done in photoshop. Recently I discovered an interesting aspects of the Canon software. If you shoot in RAW, the white balancing can be done later on, after downloading the images to your system. And some of the preset picture modes offer you outstanding results, like the one I have given above as an example. I shot this VIT University student working on a lathe machine. She was lit up with small tungsten light attached to the machine. I shot it using a 70-200mm Canon lens at f 2.8. I had used the ‘auto white balancing’. While processing the image I just thought will play around with the image. So I opened the DPP and changed the white balance to ‘Tungsten’ and the result was unbelievable. Further I changed the picture mode from ‘standard’ to ‘portrait’ and the image just came alive. All it took was less than a minute. This is a software worth exploring. See for yourself the difference. The picture with a lot of yellow and seen at the bottom was the original. The one on top is the image after using DPP.

Friday, August 19, 2011

Chennai Heritage Walks 2011 - The Walajah Trail


As part of Madras day Celebrations on 20th August 2011 – Saturday – 6.45 am – The Wallajah Trail – a tour by van and foot for two hours in Triplicane and surrounding areas, to look at vestiges of the glory of the Nawabs of Arcot. The tour will be conducted by S Anwar, well-known photographer and documentary film-maker who has been studying the contributions of the Nawabs of Arcot in great detail. The tour will conclude with breakfast. for registrationhttp://sriramv.wordpress.com/2011/08/01/heritage-walks-for-madras-week-2011/

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

The Balfour Contribution to Muhammadan Modernism

The Balfour contribution to Muhammadan modernism

by S Anwar in Madras Musings, March 16-31st, 2010

Edward Balfour, who came to India in the 1830s and retired in 1876 as Surgeon General, heading the Madras Medical Department, was a polyglot, fluent in Urdu and Persian. He acted for some time as the East India Company’s Agent to the Court of the Nawab of the Carnatic. This enabled him to play a significant role in the affairs of the Muslims of the city, including the Nawab.


It was during his tenure as Agent to the Court of Nawab Ghulam Ghouse Khan that two of the oldest Muslim institutions in the city, the Madras Muhammadan Library (Muhammadan Public Library) and the Madrasa-e Azam, were established. The present Muhammadan Public Library, earlier known as the Kutub Khana-e-Am Mufeed Ahl-e-Islam, came into existence at the instance of Dr. Balfour, a fact he proudly proclaimed while listing his noteworthy accomplishments in his monumental work, the Cyclopaedia of India (first published in 1857).

In 1849, Balfour gathered several prominent Muslims of Madras, including Abdul Wahab Kazi Irthiza Ali Khan, Sahabuddin Azam Ul Mulk, Khan-e-Alam Khan Farooq, Mushir Ud Dawla, the Chief of Nobles Shireen Sakun Khan Mirza, and Abdul Baghi Wafa, and impressed upon them the need for the community to have a library. This resulted in the founding of the library in 1850. Nawab Ghulam Ghouse Khan, his uncle Nawab Azeemjah, and Balfour himself made financial contributions. The library also received 240 unique Arabic and Persian books as a gift from the King of Egypt. The Governor of Madras, Sir Henry Pottinger, gifted 75 books. At the request of Balfour, the Council of Education, Calcutta, donated 106 books. The founding members too gifted 513 books. With the available funds, 164 books were purchased and a house was rented on Wallajah Road at Rs. 9 a month. Within four months of it being established, the library boasted of a collection of about 1,500 books. The Madras Muhammadan Library located at the junction of Wallaljah Road and Triplicane High Road was closed for renovation in the 1980s and was reopened to the public a couple of years ago.

In 1851, the year Balfour founded the Government Central Museum in Madras, the royal Madrasa of the Arcot Nawabs was, with prodding from Balfour, turned into a modern school, the Madrasa-e-Azam. It was thrown open to the public, but still preference was given to those coming from noble families or those attached to the court of the Nawab. Under orders from the young Nawab Ghulam Ghouse Khan, the services of the teachers serving in the old royal Madrasa were transferred to the newly established institution. Imamul Ulama Qazi Badruddowlah was appointed as the Chairman of the managing Board of Directors. Thanks to Balfour’s influence, the Madrasa curriculum was, for the first time in this part of the country, “loaded with secular sciences and vernacular languages, Tamil and Telugu,” Md. Yusuf Kokan records in his Arabic and Persian in Carnatic 1710-1960.

Qazi Badrudowlalah resisted the changes in the curriculum. At the end of the first academic year, the Qazi was asked in a note sent by Balfour (along with two other joint signatories) to give reasons for not cooperating in running the new Madrasa in the manner recommended. The Qazi wrote back to say he could not support a cause advocating education as a means of earning a livelihood rather than for supporting the religion. He tendered his resignation and a new Board of Directors was formed, with Salarul Mulk as Chairman, and Moulvi Yousuf Ali Khan, Moulvi Syed Ishaq Tirazish Khan Bahadur, Mohammad Nadeemullah Khan, Dr. Edward Balfour, Lt. Col. G. Balfour, Col. W.P. Macdonald, E. Maltby and Itimaduddowlah as members. Itimaduddowlah was elected Secretary. By the end of 1854 the Madrasa had 305 students.

With the passing away of Nawab Ghulam Ghouse Khan in 1855, bringing an end to the title ‘Nawab of the Carnatic’ and the power that went with it, Balfour pressed for far more radical changes in the school. Says Kokan, “...the Government agent was not in favour of providing instruction in religious studies.” So it was decided to dispense with the services of the old teachers of the Madrasa by granting them gratuity or pension according to the period of their services. In 1859, the Madrasa was declared a high school.

Having founded two institutions for the Muslims of the city, Balfour was determined to set up an institution of higher learning for Muslims, a Society of Arts and Sciences. Ever since 1852, Edward Balfour had convened several meetings in his house, the school and the Madras Muhammadan Library for this purpose. Finally, in 1854, under the joint signatures of Balfour and such prominent Muslims of the city as Nazim Jung, Mustaqeem Jung, Sirdar Jung, Mirza Abdul Baqi Khan, Muhibbi-e-Ali Khan, Jan-e-Jahan Khan, Mohammad Khairuddin Khan, Ahmad Ali, Qadir Hussain, Mohammad Abdul Qadir and Murtaza, an invitation in Persian was sent to 275 selected people to assemble at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, March 14, 1854 at the Madrasa-e-Azam. About 110 of the invitees and some spectators from the teachers and students (of the school) attended the meeting. There were a number of notable absentees, prominent among them being Qazi Badruddowlah. As Balfour was the convenor, Rashiduddowlah, son of Nawab Azeemuddowlah, proposed him for the chair.

Balfour made a passionate appeal in Urdu to the gathered Muslims, a remarkable speech that harked back to the glorious days of the Abbasid caliphate, scientific advancements, improvements that had taken place in Madras city in the previous few decades of British rule, and frank assessment of the current state of Muslims. Invoking Allah, Balfour urged those present to mend their old ways and get back to the world of knowledge. After his forceful speech (see box), several resolutions were moved, seconded and passed. However nothing came of the meeting and Balfour’s dream of a higher institution for learning remained unfulfilled for decades.

Ironically it was left to Balfour, the man who founded two noteworthy institutions for the benefit of the Madras Muslims, and desired to establish one more, to bring the curtains down on a major political institution that till then played a big role in the affairs of the Muslims of the city, the Nawabocracy of the Carnatic. As Government Agent to the Court of the Nawab, it was Edward Balfour who, after the death of the last Nawab of Arcot (Nawab Ghulam Ghouse Khan died without an issue), sealed all the offices of the Nawab on November, 22, 1856. A few months later, on January 18th, all the records of the Big Chamber were removed and taken away by him. From 1858 to 1861, Edward Balfour served on a commission to look into the debts of the Nawab.

A knowledge to be got back

Edward Balfour delivered this speech to a select gathering of prominent Muslims of Madras on March 14, 1854 at the Madrasa-e-Azam after he was appointed the President of the evening when the first dignitary could not come and the second arrived late.

The purpose of this meeting, as you all know, is to start a Society of Arts and Sciences. Such an endeavour has not been made by us before. You think that your habit will get changed by starting such a Society. You think that this world is ever changing. Man, since his birth, has been trying to increase his knowledge and thus make the conditions of his people better. Nothing is constant in this world. Everything goes on changing at every moment. You all know that some fifty years ago there was not a single bridge on any river in the city of Madras. Now in every place you find the bridges.

Twenty years ago the ships took 15 to 18 months to go to England and come back. Now you get the reply from England within fifty days. Twenty years ago one could reach Bangalore from Madras in a palanquin in six days and that too with strenuous labour. Now you can reach it within one and a half days by fixing two to four horses to your carriage. You are aware that the railway lines have been built connecting Madras with Bombay and Calcutta and many more are under construction. Now a person can easily travel fifty to sixty miles in an hour. Our progress does not end with this. You know and see that we can send our messages to Bombay and Delhi within the twinkling of the eye by means of electric bronze wires called electric telegraph.

If, in spite of all this progress, you conclude that this world is only ephemeral and always changeable and that the people should not change their notions and habits and should continue to maintain the old status, they will certainly lag behind those who want to run the Government on firm and wise lines and thus they will be deprived of the useful and sound benefits of the times. But you are not stagnant. By the Grace of Allah, to whom all of us are thankful, I have seen several changes in you during the last four years.

During this short period a nice library has been established, which has 15,000 books and 150 members, with a good income. A school has been established at Royapettah by Ameeruddowlah Bahadur and Samsamuddowlah Bahadur where 300 students are studying. Haider Jung has taken the responsibility of running a school at Mylapore on his expense. This big building, where you are conducting the meeting, is the repository of Madrasa Azam for which His Highness the Nawab has granted Rs. 12,000 per annum. All these things have taken place against your old habits. You have derived several benefits during the last four years. A big library has been established. Several schools have come into existence. And now a Society of Arts and Sciences is to be started, which will serve as a complement to all the other activities mentioned before.

In the olden days, when nobody knew about the English people, there arose a long line of great scholars, during the period of the Abbasid Caliphate, who made their name in Arts and Sciences. The English people took this knowledge from you. They not only disseminated this knowledge among themselves, but also advanced it further by their indefatigable researches. It is regrettable that you did not advance further and thus lagged behind others. Now you have to learn the same from the English people. The people in England are accustomed to meet together in cities, towns and villages and discuss with each other to increase and advance the knowledge they possess. Knowledge is a treasure. It will remain useless as long as it is not spent, or conveyed to others. If the knowledge of any person from you is limited to himself, how could we know that he is a learned man and possessed of so much knowledge? He himself does not know the extent of the knowledge he possesses. As long as he is sitting in his room he will be thinking of himself as a great learned man. He can know the amount of his knowledge only after meeting and conversing with others. In addition to the knowledge he possesses he may derive a great amount of knowledge from others. You can yourself realise the benefits you are going to derive by starting such a Society of Arts and Sciences. I hope you will all join together in starting such a Society, which will continue to be a source of unlimited benefits to you and to your posterity for generations to come.

Note: A copy of the speech, a part of the report of the meeting, is to be found at the Diwan Saheb Bagh Library, Madras.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Madras Day celebrations -"Chennai Heritage Talk'


Online edition of India's National NewspaperThursday, Aug 20, 2009

Muslims’ contribution is part of Madras history”
Staff Reporter
Researcher highlights peaceful coexistence of Hindus and Muslims
— Photo: R.Ragu LAUDING SCHOLAR: Prince of Arcot Nawab Mohammed Abdul Ali (left), presents a memento to S.Anvar, researcher and historian, at a presentation on ‘Mosques and Muslims of Madras’ in Chennai on Wednesday.


CHENNAI: While talking about the history of Madras, the history of Muslims and the contribution that they have made to the city is never spoken about, said S. Anvar, researcher and historian. The fact that the city has contributed a lot to Urdu literature has been completely forgotten. The city’s great tradition of Hindustani music also goes unsung, he added. He was speaking at a presentation on ‘Mosques and Muslims of Madras’ which was held at the Amir Mahal here as part of the ‘Madras Week’ celebrations on Wednesday.

To give some background to the Muslim presence in the city, he traced the route taken by early Arab traders who came to south India along the spice route and presented evidence to show that there was a sizeable Muslim population in the South as far back as the 7th century.

He said that there was a long history of peaceful co-existence between the Hindus and the Muslims which has been completely forgotten, and cited many examples of Muslim kings granting lands to temples and Hindu kings providing patronage for the construction of mosques.
“The first mosque to come up in Madras was built by a Hindu, Kasi Veeranna, also known as Cassa Verona. East India Company records show that he also had the alias Hasan Khan. That is our real past and tradition,” Mr.Anvar said.

The temple tank of the Kapaleeswarar temple was gifted by one of the Nawabs of Arcot and his only request from the temple authorities was to let Muslims use it one day every year during Ramzan. “This continues even today, two centuries after the temple was built,” he said.

According to him, much of the divides we face in our society today stems from the misunderstanding the Europeans brought with them. “Their monolithic culture and religion could never comprehend the diversity of India and we are paying the price for it,” he said.
He also gave a brief summary about some of the significant architectural contributions made by Muslims in the city such as the Saidapet mosque, the Wallajah mosque, the Masjid-o-Anwari and the Chepauk palace. Prince of Arcot Nawab Mohammed Abdul Ali introduced the speaker.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Muslim father and his Hindu Children



This was an article I wrote in The New Sunday Indian Express, dated November 13, 2005

A community of Hindu elders adopting a Muslim as their communities father.

Ever heard of an adult adopting a father? How about an entire community adopting a man from a different religion as its father? This is no feel-good film storyline; it did indeed take place 130 years ago, in Kombai, a small town by the foothills of the Western Ghats in the present Theni district in Tamil Nadu. The community in question is the Idangai (‘‘left-hand’’) caste living within the boundaries of the river Suruli, which flows by the Cumbum Valley. The man they came to adopt as their father was Pakkiriva Servai Rowther, a Tamil Muslim, also belonging to the same region.

Tamil Nadu’s history abounds with references to the conflict between the Idangai and Valangai (‘‘right-hand’’) castes. Sociologists and historians say the raids were a sort of power play; an assertion of one caste’s assumed superiority over the other. On one such occasion, when the Valangai caste was storming through the village and abducting the Idangai womenfolk, Rowther sheltered them all, thereby ensuring their safety. The Idangai community, who unanimously saw this akin to the act of a father protecting his children, adopted the elderly Muslim, Pakkiriva Servai Rowther, as ‘Our father, who saved the modesty of our women’.

The community didn't stop with that. Its headman Navaneetha Krishna Maistry Achari, along with the community elders, decreed that their gratitude be recorded on a copper plate. In it, the community declared that till the sun, the earth and the moon existed, its people would give pride of place to ‘Our Father’ and his family by according them the privilege of being the first to be invited for any auspicious events taking place in their families. Along with the mandatory betel leaves (used in inviting people for any auspicious events in this part of the country), the inviting family was to pay three rupees (in late 19th century, this was a reasonable sum) in cash and about 8 kilos of rice to Pakkiriva Servai Rowther’s family. Apart from weddings, the decree went, a similar honour and payment was also to bestowed on his family in the case of housewarming ceremonies.

To ensure that this decree was not taken lightly, the copper plate, which begins and ends with an invocation to all the family deities, curses anyone who disobeys it with the calamity of loss of progeny. Going further, it warns those daring to disobey that they will have committed a sin equivalent to that of killing a pregnant cow by the banks of the river Ganges.

Though the decree does seem to have been strictly followed by the community, a personal tragedy in the Muslim’s family led to their migration to Periyakulam, a village a little further away. With this move, the practice seems to have come to an end.

Abdur Rahim, descendant of Pakkiriva Servai Rowther, now runs a pharmacy in Meenkshipuram, near Bodinayakaknur, and a chance encounter with Karunandham, an epigraphist with state ASI, led to the inscription on the copper plate being read and recorded in the department's publication, Thamizhaka Seppedukal, Vol 1. Karunandham estimates the incident to have taken place in 1873, by the mention of the Tamil year ‘Sri Muka’ on the copper plate and also by the language and script used.

Though this particular connection might have been forgotten amongst the descendants, the spirit of the communal harmony still persists in Kombai. In this small town, where the mosque stands almost next to the Ranganathan temple, the Hindu women take their sick to be healed to the mosque and the Muslims throw open their mosque’s gates so their women and children can witness the temple car, the Ther. And even today, a Muslim is given pride of place in pulling the temple car.

Going through the epigraphical evidence unearthed earlier in Tamil Nadu brings one to the heart-warming realisation that Kombai is not an isolated case. A careful scrutiny of our past will reveal many more stories of peace, goodwill, and communal harmony.

Stumbling upon History

An article about my search for the maritime history of the Tamils which appeared in The New Sunday Express.

Stumbling upon History
- The New Sunday Express, May 22, 2005
The search for an ancient ship lands photojournalist S Anwar at the Azhaguya Nambi temple in Thirukurungudi. Where on earth is this place? Read on...

It was my curiosity about the ancient Tamils' maritime history that led me to the temple of Azhagiya Nambi at Thirukurungudi. I had heard from a Tamil scholar that the temple had a sculpture with a carving of a ship. It was sufficient to whet my curiosity. So on a trip to Tirunelveli, I decided to steal some time from my assignments and head for Thirukurungudi, about 47 km south of Tirunelveli.

With the Kalakkad ranges of the Western Ghats forming the backdrop and the river Nambi, a tributary of the Tamiraparani, coursing through the village, Azhagiya Nambi's temple, one of the 108 divya desams of the Vaishnavites, is set in the most scenic of surroundings. The unfinished gopuram over the entrance is majestic, with a wealth of sculptural detail. Right on top of the roof, at regular intervals, are monkeys sculpted in various poses, as if frozen in stone whilst busy in some activity.

After scanning all sides of the gopuram for the engraving of the ship, I moved into the temple only to be overwhelmed by more-than-life-size sculptures, looking as though they were about to leap upon the visitor. For those who have visited Krishnapuram near Tirunelveli or the Patteeswaraswamy temple at Perur near Coimbatore, the hall leading to Azhagiya Nambi is equally grand. With just one roll of film and very little time on my hands, I was totally unprepared for the spell-binding visual onslaught.

I reminded myself of the purpose of my visit and moved further inwards, past an exquisite Rathi Mandapam. By then, I realised that this was a huge temple complex, embellished throughout with beautiful sculptures, and that I would require local help to locate the ship. I decided to buttonhole an old man, an Iyengar, who was resting near on the second entrance. He casually waved his hands above, pointing to a panel right opposite him. There it was, almost 10 feet above us, a very detailed bas-relief sculpture of a ship about to anchor, with a boat beneath it heading towards the shore. Right on the shore was a horse being led by a man, and they seemed to be part of a grand procession of men and animals loaded with goods. The men in the panel seemed to be Arabs with broad, bearded faces and wearing caps. It seemed to be a record of the more than 2000 years old Arab trade contacts with Tamil Nadu. I was amused that these pious-looking Arab traders should be sitting above the second entrance to Nambi. Perhaps in those days religion was relatively a non-issue.

The panel also vaguely reminded me of a sculpture of Arabs I had seen in the ruins of Hampi. I had never expected to see such a detailed panel so far down South, by the foothills of the Western Ghats. But then, Thirukurungudi is closer to the ancient seaports of Tamils. Even closer, just a few km away, is Eruvadi, a small town with a predominant proportion of Tamil Muslims. Buried in this town are some great merchants and seafarers from Kayalpattnam, again an ancient port town.

Wishing to photograph the panel, I went in search of the manager, Thiru Narayanan, who proved to be very helpful. He arranged for a ladder to be brought so that I could photograph the panel without any distortion. This was not the only panel. Right above and opposite it were panels describing scenes of war and, apparently, scenes from Puranas. Above me on the ceiling, along with a lotus pond, was a procession of musicians and women, their bodies turned towards the Gajalakshmi, a symbol that one comes across in temples built by Nayaks and the rulers of Vijaynagar.

After exhausting my roll of film, I reluctantly got off the ladder, curious to know more about the builders of this great temple. The sthala purana handed over to me spoke about its association with Sri Ramanujar and the Alwars. Unfortunately it did not have any information on the builders of this great temple. However, it did have an interesting story to tell, that of Nampaaduvaan, a devotee born of lower caste (Paanars) and hence denied entry into the temple. According to the story, on an ekadasi day, while Nampaaduvaan was on his way to the temple to worship Nambi, he was confronted by a hungry demon who wanted Nampaaduvaan for his next meal. While Nampaaduvaan was willing to be the prey, he had just one request — to be allowed to conclude his ekadasi fast in front of Nambi at the temple. After expressing some doubts, the demon relented. Nampaaduvaan's heart-rending hymns sung in praise of Nambi in Kasiski Raga pleased the Lord, and he granted his devotee the moksha he wanted. And how? Azhagiya Nambi gave darshan to the untouchable devotee who had been denied entry into the temple by moving the Kodi Maram, which had been obstructing the view.

It reminded me of a parallel story in the Shaivite tradition, where Nataraja gave darshan to an ardent devotee from a lower caste, Nandhanar, by moving the Nandhi that similarly obstructed the view at Chidambaram. A drama based on Nampaaduvaan has been revived, informed Thiru Narayanan, and I realised that this was the Kaisiki Natakam. Danseuse Anita Ratnam, with the help of Professor Ramanujam, was involved in reviving it as an annual event during Ekadasi at Thirukurungudi. Incidentally, Thirukurungudi is also the birthplace of the legendary TV Sundaram Iyengar, founder of the TVS group.

With time running short, I left the temple without even getting a look at the wooden sculptures on the vimana and also Azhgiya Nambi. I knew for sure that I would be coming back, Inshallah, with a lot more time in my hands. For there seemed to be lot more to Thirukurungudi, not just for the spiritually inclined but also for connoisseurs of art and social historians.

Gunpowder lies cold

This was an article I wrote in Sunday Pioneer, in 2004

Gunpowder lies cold
- Sunday Pioneer, December 19, 2004.
Pulicat's excellent shipping facilities enabled the Dutch to keep their holdover east Asia, finds S Anvar

Appearances can be deceptive. Not just with people, even with places. When the long, winding road that branches off from National Highway 5 comes to an abrupt end, just before a waterfront, in what looks like a main bazaar that also doubles up as a noisy, crowded fish market, one needs to be reassured that this is the historic Pulicat.

Also known as Pazhaverkadu (the old jungle of mimosa trees), it was once a thriving port, over which centuries ago, many European colonial powers fought bitter battles. If you expect to breathe history upon arrival, the stench of the fish and complete chaos, typical of an Indian fish market, is what you get. Pulicat is located about 55 km from Chennai. However, having "been there and done that" before, we knew history sleeps in the side roads. Facing the waterfront and a few paces into the road on the left is the Dutch Cemetery, the most visible remains of the colonial past, that also hold some clue to the gory and glorious times.

It was on March 20, 1602, that representatives of the provinces of the Dutch Republic granted the Dutch East India Company (Verenigde Oostindische Compagnie or VOC) a monopoly on the trade in the East Indies. Its purpose was not only trade, the company also had to fight the enemies of the Republic and prevent other European nations from entering the lucrative East India trade.

Vegetable-dyed cottons from Pulicat and its hinterland, a business still remembered in a name that lingers on, Palayakat lungis, was what brought the Dutch to the Coromandel coast, to Pulicat in particular. The Dutch built a fort here in 1609 and named it Fort Gelderia, after Gelderland, one of the states of Holland. Apart from trading in textiles, the easy availability of good quality saltpetre enabled them to start manufacturing gunpowder. This was a vital commodity in the highly turbulent 17th century, when large ships roamed the seas armed to the teeth and the Dutch had to use brute force to establish their hegemony throughout east Asia. Pulicat was strategically located for the distribution of gunpowder as its excellent shipping facilities enabled the Dutch to keep most of the VOC's major establishments in the East well-stocked.

Pulicat remained the chief Dutch settlement in India till 1781 when the British took over. Restored to the Dutch in 1785, it was seized by the British again in 1795, then handed back once more in 1818 before it was finally ceded to the British in 1825. Though nothing is left of the fort, barring some traces of the foundation, thankfully the tomb of Abraham Mendis inside the Dutch cemetery has an engraving of Fort Gelderia on its tombstone. In the centre of the engraving, Fort Gelderia is surrounded by a moat filled with lotuses and fish, with slanted roofed houses in the west.

As we tiptoed across the cemetery, the ASI caretaker showed us another tombstone with a church and a tree engraved on it. Hoping to discover more such, we gentle-footed from one tomb to another, tombs built underneath domed canopies and obelisks over 40 feet high. After a futile search and no further help from the caretaker, we decided to continue our search to the other side of the road, across the market.

On the other side of the market place, there are streets with dilapidated masonry houses, occupied by ethnic Arabian Muslims. A few families are still left over and they possess a document with them in Arwi or Arabic Tamil (Tamil written in Arabic character), which says that they were banished from Mecca for refusing to pay tributes to a new calif, Hajjaj Ibn Yusuf. And so they were escorted out of the land in four ships, one of which landed in Cholamandal (meaning the land ruled by the Tamil kings, Cholas). Over a period of time they spread out and settled in Pulicat. Early in the 17th century, when a Dutch ship ran aground on the Pulicat shores, these Muslims offered food and help to the Dutch. Locals struck a trade partnership with the foreigners, to procure and supply local merchandise for the Dutch to trade with the East Indies. Mustafa Maricair, one of the Muslims, made a fortune out of dealing with the Dutch, notes the document.

It definitely seems to have been a mutually beneficial relationship. Two mosques in this area built in stone, in Dravidian architecture, are around 300 years old, corresponding to the Dutch era. The houses in which these Muslims reside are two-storeyed, some have a distinct European style with pillared fronts and high roofs. We went into one such house, almost in ruins with an old man and his sister being the sole occupants. Inside the house were neatly stacked, huge, glazed Chinese jars. Though the locals claimed they were meant for storing rain water, we wondered whether these were the Burmese martaban jars the Dutch used to store gunpowder. As we paused, our local guide from the mosque, who read out the Arwi document, whispered to us that sometime back a Dutch tourist armed with maps, pointed to this house, recognising it to be the one in which his forefathers had lived. He was willing to give a crore, but it was refused, said the man. Looking at the completely ruined state, we could hardly believe it. But who knows, what is a crore to a man who doesn't require it. The old man, who could easily be mistaken for an Arab, refused to be photographed, saying his wife had just passed away and he was in mourning. To him the ruins probably still held memories of his wife and forefathers.

A few other houses had the same glazed jars and wooden pillars with intricate designs carved on them, a reminder of the good old times. Today Pulicat is a sleepy village drawing the local tourist crowd, which is more attracted by the lake that runs miles to the north and south. Thankfully the ASI takes care of the cemetery, which seems to attract an occasional foreign tourist who has chosen to travel off the beaten track. As we headed back to Chennai, we suddenly realised that the stench in the market had hardly bothered us. Was it because of the hot sun or our engrossing time travel? Pulicat would never be a sleepy village to me again, appearances can be very deceptive.